The Battle for the Plate: Why France Should Take a Cue from Italy in Gastronomy Diplomacy

Christian Baghai
3 min readOct 4, 2023

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Few things can claim the same universality as food. Regardless of language, race, or creed, the act of sharing a meal is one of the most effective ways to foster understanding and community. It’s in this culinary arena that France, a country synonymous with haute cuisine, finds itself facing an existential question: Can it maintain its gastronomic supremacy in the age of globalized fast food and heightened competition from countries keen on carving their slice of the cultural pie?

The French Paradox in Gastronomy Diplomacy

France has long wielded its culinary heritage as a tool of soft power. In fact, the French take their food so seriously that their cuisine is recognized by UNESCO as an intangible cultural heritage of humanity. With the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, the Institut Français, and other public institutions, the French government has orchestrated various food-centric initiatives such as Goût de France / Good France festivals, French Gastronomy Weeks, and French Food Corners abroad. These events not only celebrate French cuisine but aim to permeate global consciousness with values that the French hold dear: conviviality, quality, and sustainability.

While commendable, these institutional efforts seem to fall short in the Instagram age where food is photographed as much as eaten, and where buzz can be generated as much by a single viral dish as by a hundred-year culinary tradition. Herein lies the French Paradox: a nation with an unparalleled culinary history that somehow seems to have missed the memo on modern marketing.

The Italian Model: Eataly and the Commercial Spirit

Enter Italy, another culinary heavyweight but one that has been particularly astute in its gastronomic diplomacy. Italy’s partnership with Eataly, a chain of high-end food markets and restaurants, is a brilliant case study in culinary soft power done right. Eataly doesn’t just sell pasta and wine; it sells the Italian way of life. With its cooking classes, tastings, and exhibitions, Eataly creates a multisensory experience that educates while it entertains, embodying founder Oscar Farinetti’s goal to “make the world fall in love with Italy.”

Italy understands something that France appears to be grappling with: the fusion of commerce and culture. By aligning with a private company, Italy leverages business acumen to amplify its cultural message. This isn’t selling out; it’s smart branding. And it’s high time France took note.

Why France Should Reconsider its Approach

While public institutions hold a certain gravitas, they often lack the agility and ingenuity of the private sector. A collaborative model that involves commercial partners could infuse fresh energy into France’s gastronomy diplomacy efforts. Imagine, for instance, a partnership with a global French food brand like Ladurée, turning their shops into experiential hubs where people could sample French pastries while learning about the country’s rich culinary history.

Moreover, France could draw inspiration from nations like South Korea, Peru, Japan, and Thailand, which have also successfully wielded food as a diplomatic tool. These countries employ modern marketing techniques, including digital media strategies, to reach a broader, younger audience. If France wishes to remain a gastronomic superpower, adapting to the digital age isn’t optional; it’s imperative.

The Way Forward

France has always been a trendsetter, a nation of firsts — from the world’s first restaurant to pioneering the very concept of the gourmet meal. In the face of the rising tide of global culinary competition, France doesn’t have to compromise its values or traditions, but it does need to adapt its strategies.

By collaborating with the private sector and taking a leaf out of Italy’s playbook, France has the opportunity to meld tradition with innovation. This is not just about food; it’s about cultural survival in an increasingly interconnected world. And if France plays its cards right, the world won’t just be dining à la Française; they’ll be living it, too.

In a world clamoring for the authentic and the meaningful, the stage is set. It’s France’s game to lose, but also its banquet to win.

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Christian Baghai
Christian Baghai

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